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  #1  
Old 02-02-2004, 10:05
spinderella spinderella is offline
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We found a stainless steel pot was in process of being made into meth. It is gold irredescent liquid. what stage is this in? how do you proceed?


Believe it was filtered through funnel and cotton?
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Old 05-02-2004, 02:38
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it could bethe honey after the reaction, in that case do some searching and do a postworkup i.e.a/b extraction
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Old 05-02-2004, 03:49
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for some reason the edit button isnt on swirds post so if it is the post reaction fluid do a post reaction workup,





Dirty glassware, poor reagents, sloppy technique, from this point on affect your product in a big way.
If you use soaps or detergents on your glassware, you introduce a sulfate that will turn your chili black and stinky when smoked
Wash glassware with water and rinse with acetone, if something is stuck on the inside wash with acetone and salt, swirling the salt as an abrasive then rinse super good
At the end of the reaction you may have heard of the chili being called an oil, well it looks golden, like an oil,
but at this low pH (acidic), it is actually a water soluble salt of iodine.
Are you still withme?!
Procedure Continued
Add 100 ml of boiling/scalding-hot-as-f**k---->water for every ounce of initial ephedrine after the reaction mixture has cooled.
Boil the solution in a stove top safe glass bowl for 5-10 minutes, this will save you time by not having to refilter the mixture several times as noted below
Filter using coffee filter and cotton ball plug gently pressed inside the tip and pre-wet all filters always and forever religeously.


Re-filter through the same filters again, continue refiltering until it is clear as a bell. It may take three filterings.......it may take fifty but do not proceed until it is clear or your ass is gonna wish it did come time to get high!! You will end up with a clear yellow or colorless solution that can have many different odors. If you don't refilter you may leave iodine in the stuff.


Procedure Continued
Create the chili free base (oil soluble) by raising the pH of the water soluble layer to pH 12.5-13,


Slowly add a cold (put ice in it) 20% Sodium Hydroxide solution( 200 gm of NaOH dissolved in 1000 ml of d-water).
Add the NaOH slowly, Swirl the flask or shake lightly, Hard Shaking will create an emulsion and it will have to sit for hours before ot clears
Important- All pH measurements are made only on the water layer (lower layer) or polar solvent. To take a pH reading on the non-polar, upper oil. solvent is useless.
Solubility, ions, polar, non-polar
Variation- as to when to add the nonpolar solution is a common point of contention, you want a nice debate, this will get you into the middle of a fanatical argument.
Generally it is a good idea to add the non-polar before adding the base, the non-polar attracts the free amine (free base) E and M and helps them move more rapidly out of the polar solution..
However there are times when you do not want a non-polar compound mixed in, Steam distilling , contamination, or to observe the E and M changing solubility.
The non-polar is not absolutely needed most of the time , it depends on concentration, it may give a better yield, and does move the E and M much faster.
But unless you have a specific reason to not do so, most newbees would be advised to add some non-polar prior to adding the strong base. Experiment when you have a few cooks behind you.
CAUTION adding NaOH too fast, to a hot solution is dangerous. Many bees premix a 20% NaOH solution and then add ice cubes to that, others add it straight .
The idea is to get the pH up above pH 12.5.
Contrary to some literature in Erowid's site, only the amines and very similar compounds have this unusual ability to freely change solubility from water to oil base when the pH is changed.
Morphine, codeine , heroine, and cocaine are common examples they have CH-CH skeletal structures with the N-H and OH groups exposed.
The CH hydrocarbon(hydro--hydroGEN/CARBON--CARBON-hydro/carbon(CH)<---get it?! ) chains and rings (aliphatic and aromatic) are what is a non-polar polar molecule like methane-(CH4) or benzene-(C6H6)
The -OH(oxygen/hydrogen) adds a degree of ionic polar like quality as in methanol CH3-OH, or phenol C6H5-OH.
But it is the mainly the nitrogen =NH changing to =NH2+ in the presence of excess H+(acid) that gives the legendary Hydrogen bonding and full water(polar)(ionic) solubility, along with attracting anions like -Cl.
Hydrogen bonding is an ass kicking ionic bond that is 1/5 as attractive as a full bore covalent bond.
Now that is some stickiness. You will find hydrogen bonding when N, O or Fluorine are present.
Generally these three atoms determine if a hydrocarbon will be water soluble.


Procedure continued
Depending upon concentrations , The chili floats to the top, or will be seen still in the water as a thick white cloudiness
Check the pH when above 12.5 Add a non polar solvent (Coleman, Charcoal lighter fluid, toluene, xylene, naphtha, ether, hexane ..etc.) at least 100 ml then 50 ml for every ounce.
Shake Lightly. this should clear out much of the cloudiness from the lower layer as the chili moves up into the non-polar
Adding rock salt (as much as will dissolve) causes the water to drop all remaining chili, releasing it to the oil and increases your yield.
Swirl at this point , or shake easily .
Allow the mixture to layer, 10-30 minutes or more, then separate, discarding (but saving)the lower water/lye layer.
Lye Lock
Watch out for a solidification of the lye/water layer (lye lock) too much solid material in the water lye , as it cools from the heat released by adding the NaOH, the NaOH begins to solidify. One good thing is you know the pH was high enough.
probably close to pH 13.7
Dilute it with warm water before it hardens, and begin draining out the lower layer, contine diluting, or it will harden then it is more difficult to keep dilute
keep it separated (don't shake)
Remove the lye solution
Depending on concentrations there may be a whitish waxy looking substance at the lower layer of the nonpolar, looks sorta like emulsion, This is often not speed . This is emulsion which rarely has anything of value in it. If in doubt as to where exactly to make the cut off between emulsion and non polar flush the lye /water layer and leave the emulsion with the non polar.
After the initial water wash is drained swirl the separatory funnel very strongly , a snow storm of whitish globules will descend to the bottom. dump these they are emulsion, swirl repeatedly to remove this nasty gakk it is dependent upon pH and concentrations and 95% of the time is gakk at is best.
Wash with water again and repeat the swirl to get after this emulsion, it is an impersonator of meth but is tainted because it is an altered molecule containing properties that place it in between polar and nonpolar, and is best removed because it tends to pull anions and cations with it and these will really taint your shit. This gakk will have properties similar to chili but not identical.
Wash the free base and fuel solvent with d-water 3 times and separate each time ( using 1/2 the volume of water as the the oil ). Shake it well when doing the wash, but do not over shake. Add this wash water to your discard bucket along with the lye water
After three washes- make the salt of meth
Add d-water again ( a smaller volume than the fuel), it is easier to evaporate the less water you use.


If you want to gas dope simply take you Liquid Fire Sulphric acid found at plumbing supply stores and the like and Rock salt. These are your precursors for the Hcl gas now go buy an aereator stone for aquiariums anda microwavable baby nipple with a 1/4-out-diameter vinyl tubing with a OLD MILWAKEEE QUART-WIDE-MOUTH BOTTLE OR OF SIMILAR DIAMETER NECK AS THE NIPPLE FITS PERFECT OVER IT AN YOU RUN THE TUBING THROUGH THE NIPPLE NOT DOWN THE TUBING!!! Sulphuric acid is much tamer than aluminium foil and muriatic acid and gassing is superior to titrates any day of the week. Put a cotton ball an inch-and-a-half outside the tipof the nipple inside the tubing and any possible "splash-ups will be absorbed and stopped from running into your chilli which is soon to become cottage cheese.


Or add HCl(muriatic acid) drop wise, shaking lightly, test the pH add more HCl until the water layer tests between pH 7.0 and pH 8.0 . This is about 6 drops of 30% HCl (muriatic) per gram of expected product,
this makes the chili a water soluble molecule again, and moves it down into the water layer.



If you are consistently getting dope that smokes burns dark and gakky , consider the source of your HCl probably also contains sulfuric acid, and you might consider gassing it instead or distill your HCl first.


Separate the water from the non-polar again ,saving the water layer in your boiling bowl
Evaporate the water away, using heat, and a hair dryer. The hair dryer will improve yield , it actually cools the solution by evaporation.
But the hair dryer will add debris from the air, so don't use hair dryer on severely dusty, smoky, or smoggy days.
If the pH goes below pH 6.0, go ahead and evaporate the water away then wash the crushed crystals with acetone, to remove the acid.
In this HCl water soluble form, it is usable


Adding the HCl
Add an 1/2 volume of d-water again
Toss in a couple healthy squirts of HCl.
A bit less HCl than is needed, that will be 1 ml of 30% HCl for each gram of expected product
Shake well
allow to form into two layers
Separate and save the water layer in your boiling bowl
Evaporate the water away
Enjoy the great crystal chili that pops out
then do another pull
Add more d-water to the non-polar/meth
Couple more squirts of HCl
shake well,
allow to layer
separate and evaporate
Continue in this fashion
Eventually you will get to the last pull,
you will know it is the final pull because a great deal of nasty HCl vapor will come off when evaporating the mixture ,
You will have to wash the excess HCl out of the crushed crystals, of this final pull, with acetone.
All the pulls are the same and great chili even though the pH was at 10 , 9, 8 or 7 when the shit was dropped out of the non-polar.
WHY?
Most of it happened with in a small pH range of pH 10.0 to pH 8.5 As the chili takes on a H+ attached to its nitrogen, it is capable of hydrogen bonding . Once it accepts a Cl- ion, it becomes suddenly very water soluble.
It is related only partially to the pH because if you were very careful about any ions you could concievably maintain the freebase at pH 7.0 but the -OH would interfere .
In this case it is the Cl- that is the primary factor affecting formation of the water soluble salt. That is why it is very important once you have the freebase form, to only use very pure distilled and deionized water to wash the freebase clean. because any negative ion , is going to cause a loss of product when washing the free base, depending upon the pH and a dozen different concentrations of whatever ions are present,
The pH will drop with each washing. The pH of pure water is 7.0, distilled is often 6.8 , tap water can be up to 8.5+
The less foreign ions present the better control you will have.
Better yields
Better dope


De-contamination procedure For cleaning up Chili quickly
Crush up, the chili in a bowl with minimum of dry cold acetone ( no water)
Pour crystals and acetone into a filter
Wash crystals by flushing with more dry acetone, until they are white, this removes the acetone soluble junk
Optionally wash them with any of the non-polar solvents to remove non-polar soluble junk
Wash off the non-polar solvent with acetone.
Change to a clean collecting flask
Keeping crystals in the same filter. Add denatured alcohol to dissolve the chili and leave most salts and insoluble crap behind.
It may take 10 minutes for all the chili to fully dissolve
For a quick clean evaporate the alcohol away
For a major purification use recrystallization
Boil the filtered alcohol/chili mixture until a slight skin begins to form on the alcohol, add about 10 ml of fresh alcohol to dissolve the skin again and add 20 ml of acetone, cover the container and place in freezer for 6 hours or more up to 24 hours, the longer the better and bigger will be the crystals.
After the 6 hours, Filter the crystals cold and quickly, rinse lightly with a very small amount of ice cold alcohol, after the residual alcohol evaporates from the surface of the crystals this will give you some of the finest chili you have ever had.
After washing with the alcohol as noted above , it is fun to place the crystals on a dark surface , spread them out to help the residual alcohol escape. Pull out the digital camera, and snap a few pictures of your beauties. These photos will be a source of enjoyment. Simply because it is rare to see so much stuff, looking so good. Soon it will be bagged and such and looses that magic quality of the untouched pure crystal. You will be one person in 1/2 of a million in the US that ever gets to see this.
Water Soluble Sulfates
If your chili looks clean and white but when you vaporize it leaves a nasty black residue , then you have water soluble sulfates that can be removed using the recrystallization method
Glass like shards and crystals
To get the bigger clear glass crystals, the final stage of drying should be slow, from dry alcohol seem best,
with a little acetone added, then was with alcohol only


Recrystallization
This is the same as presented above in De-contamination procedure
Re-crystallization of chili using methanol, denatured alcohol, or 91% isopropyl alc. will grow some very pretty, large crystals and will make your product more pure and much more potent. This is one procedure that is simplicity itself and always produces a major improvement with surprisingly little loss of product.
Super pure crystals, using denatured alc. and vision ware
After the chili was pulled out of the toluene (non-polar solution) using HCl and water, It was run through a filter and placed in a vision ware bowl for evaporation. The water was evaporated leaving the crude raw Crystals.
These were crushed and washed with ice cold dry(25%-cooked-epsom salts-inside-the-acetone-container/75%-acetone) acetone. Using a filter with cotton-ball-tipped and five or ten filters, use this to ensure the acetone is 100% stripped of not only the water which may have condensed, but the dessicant used inside!! The epsom salts. It should pour a clear liquid. Don't getsloppy here now ya hear?!


The washed Crystals were then dissolved in hot denatured alc. the alcohol was boiled away until the first sign of skin forming or the first sign of crystallization noted. Remove from the heat add enough alcohol to remove the skinning so no more crystallization can be seen then add 20 ml of acetone, if it turns cloudy add alcohol drop wise until it is clear again cover and place in freezer 6 hours or more( overnight is great) you will return to find crystals floating in the liquor.
Rapidly filter out the cold crystals , then wash them with a little cold alcohol to remove any gakk on the surface and in the outer crystal layer, set out to dry..
All three steps were performed without ever removing the chili from the vision ware bowl.
Recrystallization details
The Chili is dissolved in a minimum amount of dry alcohol, this is heated, USING a Safety fan (Always)
as needed to get it to dissolve , bring it to a soft boil . Continue boiling until you begin to see the chili form crystals on the surface of the alcohol.
This is a super saturated solution . Add a little alcohol to dissolve the skin again, and add 20 ml of acetone
Then cover and set in freezer, as the temperature drops, crystals will form .
Leave in freezer for 6 to 12 hours or even longer. Generally the longer in the freezer the bigger and better will be the crystals.


The chili re-crystallizes as the temperature drops, the alcohol won't freeze.
As time goes on the crystals "digest". Digestion means the crystals are slowly re-modeled, the outer layers with impurities are stripped away a reform without the impurities.
In addition the smaller crystals dissolve and become incorporated into the larger crystals because of volume(cubic) versus surface area(square) considerations
After which the resulting crystals were quickly cold filtered , washed with a little cold alcohol and dried.
The crystals should be rinsed lightly with alcohol wash off any of the mother liquor that is stuck to the crystals, and to remove the outer layer of crystal which is slightly impure
Note-for even better results:
The super saturated solution(dissolved in hot solvent) forms crystals faster than the hot but more dilute solution , but the more dilute allows better digestion and more pure crystals.
Life is such a trade off in every way.
Appearance:
The resulting crystals were sparkly, 1 cm x 2 mm x 0.5 mm very clear
up to 1 inch long and chunky
BioAssay:
Performed repeatedly, and it was determined that the resulting product was far superior to the original stock. The taste was greatly improved . Any nasty residue was essentially nonexistent. The overall potency was increased significantly. Enough to warrant the use of this technique in future productions.






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Old 06-02-2004, 14:04
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It is simpler than it sounds, I gather?
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Old 06-02-2004, 18:00
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yeah it is simpler than it sounds, its just long winded cause its in detail
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Old 06-02-2004, 18:31
mandy mandy is offline
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Do you think this site could be monitored by any law enforcement agencies or did I bump my head too last night?
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Old 06-02-2004, 19:03
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oh swim is pretty sure it is but everything on here is FICTIONAL and has no affiliation with producing any form of drug. it is all just a dream that swims friend has been having and he told me to relay this to the public. mandy if you dont mind me asking, how old are you? if you do than take it as swim never asked
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Old 06-02-2004, 19:45
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I'm 28. I have read the rules and regulations very carefully. I was wondering, do you know how to delete a message you've already typed and posted? I'm trying to send a message to Woodman to ask how to edit, but it won't send because he has exceeded his number of personal messages. I feel kind of silly for some of the comments I've made (who am I, who wants my opinion?) and I'd really like to delete them. Please be detailed if and when you tell me how to delete items, because I am very new with computers. Thank you so much. This is a great site.
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Old 06-02-2004, 20:02
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<blockquote>Originally posted by mandy on 06 February 2004 I'm trying to send a message to Woodman to ask how to edit, but it won't send because he has exceeded his number of personal messages.<hr></blockquote><hr>
WHAT THE F**K!!



No wonder I haven't been able to get incoming messages.



Here, I thought I was being ignored for bad behavior or outgoing messages tasken the wrong way.



Many thanks for giving me the "head's up," Mandy!



I owe you an e-hit for that one!



Okay, I went back and fixed by deleting old messages. Now I think I can receive, but see BA's post below.



Thanks, BA. I owe you more e-hits than I have in stash.
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Old 06-02-2004, 20:05
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mandy


PM me, with the post you want deleted and where they are posted


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