Do NOT incriminate yourself. Use SWIM (Someone Who Isn't Me) when discussing activities such as extracting DMT (which is illegal in most of the world) and other activities that SWIY may feel the urge to post about on this open internet forum.
If SWIY does NOT abide by the rules then they will not be around here for very much longer!
amrad - now that you've read the rules:
Someguy who isn't me told some other guy who isn't me that the Marsofold tek works great for Phalaris, you just have to add three defats with xylene before basification, evap instead of freeze precip, and be prepared to smoke goo instead of crystals. Still makes yer head feel funny though. And isn't that what it's all about?
SWIMs been considering to grow some phalaris but after finding out there's gramine he didn't order the seeds. Does the gramine find it's way to final product if the extraction is made? How much adverse effects gramine has in practise? I know it toxic...
if SWIYR going to grow phalaris i think its important to know how to get the alkaloid content sufficeint.
heres a tidbit i found:
This takes some skill. Time never stops, and everyone wants to get their phalaris as big and trypty in as short time as possible. Parts you are after are leaves - leaves have the highest alkaloid contents - so dont harvest anything else -highest alkaloid concentrations are found in immature grass and leaf blades, lowest in leaf sheaths, stems and roots. Starting from seeds is easy. Get some shallow (10 cm/4") pots. Tray with edges will do, bucket is fine - anything that can hold some soil together, something that doesn't rot or suck the water from the soil. Regular plastic pots are fine. Dont use clay/unglazed ceramic pots, these hold water. Place soil in the container, wet it thoroughly, and place seeds on the soil. You can soak the seeds for 24 or 12 or 6 hours before if you want to - this will speed up the process a bit. Cover the seeds with thin layer of soil (say like 3 mm). Spray the soil with water, and cover the container with clear plastic so that humidity stays high. If you can raise the temperature couple of degrees (23-25°C), seeds will germinate faster. After couple of days first sprouts should be visible, remove the plastic .Optimum temperature for vegetative growth would be about 20-22°C. Alkaloids in phalarii can be increased with stressing. Stressing, on the other hand, slows the growth and decreases the total yield. I will refer to any action that increases the total alkaloid-yield by stressing. These methods work for both P. arundinacea and aquatica. There are three basic methods in stressing: clipping, shading and moisture-control. Clipping is relatively easy. Take clean scissors into your right hand, hold the plant still with your left hand, and |SNIP|, your plant just got stressed. But simply clipping the plants shorter will decrease your total yield. Wait until the plant is about 10 or 20 cm (1/2 ' ) high. Cut right above the leaf. Wait until you get another leaf, above which to cut, could be two days or two weeks. Clipping increases tryptamine content by 50% to even 400%. The amount of betacarbolines is roughly doubled. Shading is quite controversial issue. Shading slows the growth, and seems to affect different strains different ways. I will try to shed some light into shadows. First of all, you will probably grow your plants indoors, and if these plants are not on the windowsill, they will not be receiving anything near the light plants outdoors do, where all the studies are made. Forget shading. If you grow yours outdoors/near good light source, shading might be useful. Shade the plants for their last 1/4th or 1/5th of the growing-period. In practice, placing a sheet of glass/plexiglass or a thin net between the plants and the light source should work. Glass eats anything from couple to 20% (dirty) of the light. Amount of shading is quite troublesome, too. General mean value would be maybe 5 to 15%. Arundinacea responds to smaller shifts, halve the figures. Shading increases the tryptamine content by 20 to 30% . Moisture-stressing is also quite easy. You dont water for a week or so. Interestingly, plants droughted for a long time, produce some unknown alkaloid. Young plants respond better to drought, whereas older (+30) may not show any response in respect to the alkaloid content. Regrowths grown from droughted plants (which did not show response) had a higher alkaloid content. If you wilt, wilt young plants. No water for a period of 5 to 10 days. If any damage (brown leaf tips etc.) begins to show, stop wilting. Note that although the plants cannot be rotted to death with overwatering, it slows the growth. Let the soil dry out between the waterings. Moisture stress may as much as double the alkaloid content. To get high leaf mass, your plant needs high amounts of water, light, and nutrients. Nutrients, on the other hand, have been shown to have a negative effect on the alkaloid content - adequate fertilization may in fact lower the total alkaloid content. And stressing decreases the leaf mass. So you must walk the fine line between these two. Make a growing program, divided in 4 to 8 parts. During certain parts you maximise the leaf mass. And during certain parts you maximise the alkaloid content.
Thanks, great read I have a possibility of growing outdoors if the Finlands short summer is enough. My Gramine question is still unananswered? If one used regurarly/occasionally/couple of time, what risks would he be taking?
21-06-2006, 21:20
I have a possibility of growing outdoors if the Finlands short summer is enough. My Gramine question is still unananswered? If one used regurarly/occasionally/couple of time, what risks would he be taking?
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