Originally Posted by sassyspy
Lots of my pet duck's friends swear by the bleach method, but it takes too long for her to wait! She says there's product known as "Whinks" in grocery stores, sold as a rust remover! of all things! but a couple swipes with a soaked cotton bud and its clean, can be washed and dried easily at that point.
You are absolutely correct about the product, how this is not the set in stone method is beyond me and why more people don't know about this today is another shocker since that it has been a vital part of our recreational tools for over 12 years now.
Here's some information and a few tips for the purpose of educating those that know nothing of what it is and to avoid embarrassment or that "look at this tweaker" look you may get if you have no idea what you are looking for other than a name and they ask you what's it for. Ahh duhhh "Fer my oil burner what else" A lot of places are hip to what it's used for as I'll explain below.
- The manufacturers and brand name is "Whink" no "s" but I'm sure you would find this out eventually.
- The products actual name as written on the label is "Rust Stain Remover"
- The container is a brown plastic bottle, with a white cap, check their website for a gander at it before you go on your journey.
- Where you may find it, in grocery stores it's located primarily on the laundry detergent aisle or with the cleaning products if you shop at Wally World. In hardware stores it's usually where the cleaning products are located.
- What's it used for? "quickly and easily removes rust stains from white sinks & white toilet bowls as well as colorfast fabrics & carpets."
I say may find it because it is becoming harder to locate in major US cities any way and no longer available at every single grocery store and drug
store like it used to be 10 years ago. One of the primary reasons is because it's linked to meth
users and ironically started to disappeared around the same time Red Devil Lye fell off the shelves even though it's not used in manufacturing it's part of the element and also often boosted by none other than "the element".
This may or may not be useful to some of you but those that actually "care" about their tools and hardware usual appreciate this info.
- What is the active ingredient? "Hydrofluoric acid"
- WTF is that? "a compound of hydrogen and fluorine dissolved in water to produce an extremely corrosive acid traditionally used to etch glass and it is the only acid that will dissolve glass. It is neat and leaves a clear finish"
- How do I use it sounds dangerous because it's a highly corrosive acid? "If you have super sensitive skin you may want to wear gloves, personally it has never burned the users I know skin, but always practice safety, but understand although it will dissolve glass remember it's used for stains on clothes and doesn't burn holes in the clothes like muriatic or sulfuric acid does"
- OK I'm sold how do I use it? "The above quoted method mentions being faster than the bleach method by using a Qtip and wiping around and rinsing. You can do that if you want if you want to take the long route and shorten the life of your pipe by thinning your bowl out.
- OK smarty pants whats the faster and better for my piece way then what is already really fast with the Qtip? "Based on over 12 years experience with the goods do the following if you really care about your hardware and want the best results invest in a gallon of distilled water, if you are a cheap skate use pure tap which you'll need anyway and still works but you'll see why I mention distilled. Get your piece no matter how wrecked it is and if you are a Bic user (shame on you, I'll cover that in lighters 101 someday) and have black shit all over the outside which we'll get also in a second pour enough product down your stem to fill a little less than half your bowl with the acid and hit the bowl with a torch lighter or hold it over the stove for about 5 seconds, swirl the product in the bowl and you should see your entire stains are lifted off instantly, pour the crap out down the stem and run tap water down the neck through the bowl for about 10 seconds, follow that with a pipe full of distilled water shake it around dump it and you are done. If you have a shit ton of stains on the outside pour some on a paper towel and wipe the stains off. Distilled water leaves NO water spots which are minerals in the water and a gallon is about a dollar should last at least a month if you are only final rinsing. To dry use a old t-shirt cut off a piece so it looks like a shoe lace when you roll it up and feed it down the neck of your pipe. The best is a slice of Sham-WOW or the Absorber. The whole process takes less than one minute once you get it down. NOTHING can match this method as far as being safe for the glass and turn around time period.
In addition after some time goes by and you feel rough or pitted glass on the bottom of your bowl then
follow up with this after you have cleansed your piece again add some acid to your bowl and this time use a QTip and gently rub around the bottom of the bowl area on the inside and outside of the bowl. This conditions the bowl and smooths out the pinholes or pits that eventually start to consume your gear after a while. You can actually feels the roughness on the bottom of the pipe bowl, this will get smoothed out doing this method. Some may have to do this more often some less depending on how often you do your hobby.
I've heard of people going through up to 10 pipes a week because of neglect or clumsy or whatever but the hardware in service today was purchased in November 2010 and is still as good as new and it gets used daily. That's 100% true no BS. But good care leads to that but I'm extreme when it comes to good hardware and gear. But there's no reason anyone shouldn't be able to get more than a month out of a piece.
One more thing this also works for 420 bongs and glass pieces that are fucnked up with resin. Only you have to soak them a longer but leaves them like brand new and kills any product sold at head shops for over $20.